the infamous dakar - bamako express (Dakar part 1)
I am in Dakar waiting to buy a train ticket for a train with no departure date. There is no schedule for the Bamako – Dakar train. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lying to you. Unfortunately, everyone is very happy to give answers. It's all very absurd. But the enormous amount of mystery and drama surrounding this train is reason enough for me to stick around for a few days. I am not trying to spend three days in a rusting puegot with eight people driving to Bamako. Though, it would be considerably faster. Again, it's not about the time, but the movement.
"Excuse me, do you know when the train leaves for Bamako?"
"It just left a few days ago."
"What day?"
"I don't know, a few days ago. You missed it."
"Won't it leave again?"
"Yes, but it has to come back first."
"Of course, but what day does it leave next week?"
"Depends on when it returns. It can't leave before it gets back."
"I suppose not. Well, do you know when it is supposed to come back from Bamako?"
"How can I know when it will leave Bamako if it hasn't arrived yet?"
"Well, when did it leave here?"
"I don't know, a few days ago, just after it arrived."
Everyday I go to the station and have some variation of the same conversation.
On other trips, I am told that the train will leave in two days, that it is still in Bamako, that it has already arrived, that it already just left last night… all by men in uniforms with big smiles and sticks in their mouths.
It's perfect African logic, of course. But I never leave the train station more sure of things than when I arrived.
I can't buy a ticket until the window opens. The window opens when the train returns and is going to leave again. I find out when the train gets back from the guy who works who works behind the little window. He'll sell me a ticket if he is there, and I'm there and it's the right day and he feels like it.
But, there are worse places to wait for an imaginary train.
I begin to wonder if the only way to get on this train is to set up a blue tarp in the station, camp out, and sell bags of peanuts.
posted by steph carlisle at 1:47 PM
7 Comments:
Nice! Where you get this guestbook? I want the same script.. Awesome content. thankyou.
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